Lovely Lydia Design

The ongoing cycle of love and compassion will always start with our moms.  Their unselfish decision to bring us into this world and nurture us through it helped us reach our goals and evolve into the people we are today. Thank you ladies for making us feel valuable, special, and important and for giving us the confidence to be happy and healthy in our lives today. There’s not a day we don’t miss our moms and their fabulous sense of humor, their ability to check-us when needed, and of course their hugs. We love you both.  Thank you for being our amazing moms!

Love,

Kristen and Erik

One of the highlights of a trip to the Alhambra is going to the top of the Torre de la Vela (watchtower).  It is essentially the highest point in the entire complex and you get a fantastic view of Granada as well as the surrounding mountains.

 Here are a few more pictures from inside the Nasrid Palace:  Remember the Torre de las Damas picture from the previous post (the one with the goldfish)?  Well, here is a picture of that same pool in the opposite direction. Another courtyard from inside the Nasrid Palace.  This is right next to the bath area of the palace…think Spartacus!  After visiting the area surrounding the Nasrid Palace, we toured the Alcazaba (military complex).  Multiple levels with random walkways, viewpoints, and aged ruins.  Not to mention the area where the watchtower is located…the Alcazaba area was a must see.  After touring the Nasrid Palace and the Alcazaba, we were off to the Generalife, or Architect’s Garden…basically the guest house for the royalty.  It is also one of the oldest surviving Moorish gardens.  This courtyard had fountains, tile walls, beautiful plaster work, exotic plant varieties…pretty exquisite. Here are some more views of Granada from the Alhambra:  This pool was just one of many in the Generalife.  At this point in the trip it was getting a bit warm and Erik was tempted to take a quick dip!

The Generalife also provided plenty of great views of the main portion of the Alhambra:

 Here is a cool view of the Alhambra gardens from the Torre de los Picos (Tower of Points).

Another shot of the beautiful courtyard in the Generalife:

 These last few pictures were shot from inside the Palacio de Carlos V (Palace of Charles V).  Once the Alhambra had been captured by the Catholics, Charles V had this palace built right in the center of the complex, next to the Nasrid Palace.  As you can see, it’s a very interesting contrast to the rest of the Alhambra.  Very grand and stately with large features and none of the minor details you see in the Nasrid Palace. One of the cool things about the Palacio de Carlos V is the combination of geometric shapes.  The exterior of the building is a very large square whereas the interior is a huge circle…not exactly what you expect to see when you walk through the gigantic entrance doors. We used the opportunity to do some timed camera shots:

Our second day in Granada was consumed with seeing the star attraction…the Alhambra.  Only a limited number of tourists are allowed to visit the Alhambra each day and tickets go on sale up to a year in advance.  Due to our relatively late start to our trip (only about 2 months to plan) by the time we were ready to purchase our tickets they had sold out.  Not to worry, though, there is actually a pretty good deal offered by Caja Granada for a tourist card that includes Alhambra access.  It’s a bit more expensive than standard admission, but it also includes free bus rides and admission to most of the other places of interest in town.  Would definitely recommend this as a backup plan if the Alhambra is sold out.

Here is a view of the Alhambra from across the ravine in the neighborhood known as Albayzin:

 This picture is of the sign for the Hall of the Abencerrajes inside the Nasrid Palace area of the Alhambra.

 The Court of Myrtles is one of the first beautiful courtyards you are greeted with as you make your way through the Nasrid Palace.  Calm water, beautiful myrtle hedges, hot sun…very relaxing!The most common design elements in Moorish architecture are the horseshoe arches, domes and spheres, muqarnas (Islamic Corbels), and decorative tile work. It’s absolutely astonishing that the detail required to craft such intricate designs was done 100% by hand.  In our modern times it is difficult to think of a structure that is as grande and exquisite as the Nasrid Palace.  Here is Erik standing in the Torre de las Damas area of the Alhambra.  You can even see some of the goldfish in the pond.  The views out from some of the rooms in the Alhambra are amazing!  You basically look down onto all of the old-town area of Granada and can see all of the neighborhoods and famous landmarks. Here is another picture from within the Nasrid Palace.  Once again, all of the walls and tiles were hand chipped and individually assembled to make the walls.  It’s an amazing work of art, especially when you consider there are literally hundreds of square feet of these tiles throughout the palace.  Here is a more artistic shot of the rest of Granada from one of the numerous gardens in the Alhambra complex.

Granada…I love this city. The rich bohemian vibe, bongo drums next to guitar players, harem pants-a-plenty, artists selling crafts on every corner – Granada inspires with an easy, cool, hip feel.  The University of Granada surely helps to keep the city fresh and youthful.

Here are some kids playing soccer in front of a government building.  They were out there  playing soccer all day…seriously…we walked by them 3 or 4 times.

Our first day in Granada was spent soaking up the Sun’s rays, climbing the steep hills in the old part of the city otherwise known as the Albayzin, where Moorish people lived during Medieval times. Streets and alleys are lined with white-washed buildings that appear to be the residences of many university students. The Albayzin neighborhood occupies one of several hillsides in Granada, but it’s the path to the top that makes it a wonderful excursion. Starting low in the main part of town, you just follow a winding path sandwiched between a lush, green creek and beautifully unique medieval buildings. After passing courtyards, palaces, mini cafes, tons of artists painting landscapes and playing music, you emerge at the base of a huge, steep hill.  In the distance is the Alhambra…the very reason most tourists travel so deeply into Andalusia.

Here is one of the steep hills to the top of Albayzin:

Very unique architecture throughout the Albayzin:

Just like Seville, there is a ton of bullfighting in Granada: 

This door was in the Albayzin neighborhood.  Unique mix of graffiti and beautiful architecture.  It’s a shame people feel the need to spray-paint on random things.

Here is a shot of the Alhambra taken from a lower palace called the Palacio de los Cordova.

Here is one of the main drags through town (the old part of town that is):
 Neat door!

Inside the narrow, winding streets of the Albayzin neighborhood again:

 Here’s a nifty self-timed shot from a perch in the Albayzin neighborhood.  The Alhambra definitely provides a beautiful backdrop, eh! Erik working his way up to the top of the Albayzin hill:  Once you get to the top of the Albayzin hill, there is a cool courtyard with tons of cafes, tourists, musicians, and people selling their crafts.  Definitely not what we were expecting, but fun nonetheless.

That’s right, we’re in Granada baby!

 This is the main square called Plaza Nueva, located in the center of old-town Granada. 

One of the absolute highlights of our trip was our evening at the Hammam Banos Arabes, an Arabian bath. For 2 hours we retreated into a 13th century spa, where relaxation exuded from all corners. Calming music, ambient lighting, and peppermint scents were abundant throughout the spa.  Pools of varying temperatures were dispersed throughout the spa, so we could experience both the relaxation of a hot or warm pool and the stimulation of a cold pool, all within a few steps. There was also the option to take a break from the pools in one of a few steam rooms or to go and sip some delicious mint tea.  We polished the evening off with a 30 minute massage and some time spent laying on a hot rock. Heaven.

Images via Hammam Banos Arabes

There’s no doubt about it the dire economic state of Spain is evident. Signs of protest decorate the walls and buildings through out all the cities in Spain.

One of the major attractions in Seville is the Reales Alcazares de Sevilla (Royal Castle of Seville), located in the Plaza Del Triunfo adjacent to the Seville Cathedral.  The picture below is of the entrance to the castle…very cool entrance!

The interior of the palace was filled with very detailed and finely crafted, intricate carvings.  There was also a huge garden area filled with all sorts of exotic plants and flowers.  Numerous gazebos and fountains were located throughout the garden area and there were a ton of places to just sit down and absorb the atmosphere. Each of these tile pieces (including the narrow white pieces) was hand cut and crafted individually (we know this because we saw them making similar pieces in Morocco as you’ll see in a few days).  Pretty incredible attention to detail and craftsmanship.

Here is one of the numerous beautiful courtyards located inside the castle.  They grew the orange trees down below the walkways so that they would have an easier time of picking the fruit when it ripened…innovation at its best!

These tiles have been exposed to the elements for many years, but they still look pretty amazing. And talk about amazing… check out Mr. GQ

Despite spending a month walking around our condo sporting the awesome looking combo of socks and sandals (I heard this was the best way to break in leather… nope) blisters got the best of me. I finally broke down and had to put on some band-aids.  These became a common theme throughout the rest of our trip.

Another beautiful building/plaza area in Seville is the Plaza de Espana, built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition (world’s fair) the following year.  The plaza is surrounded by a beautiful building and there is a small waterway cutting through the center.  You can even rent a rowboat (or a powerboat, which seems a bit out of place) and paddle your way around the entire plaza.  We quickly realized we had mad rowing skills compared with the rest of the people on the water and ended up rowing circles around them…seriously.

Our arrival into Seville was a bit of shock. Our two days of relaxing exploration in quiet Cordoba was immediately contrasted by the quick pace of Seville. Due to the size and arrangement of monuments in Seville, we decided our best approach was to jump on an around-town tour bus… you know the double-decker kind without a roof. The plan worked perfectly and in less than an hour we had a plan of attack. Scoped out some places to eat, saw some potential neighborhoods for exploring, and saw buildings that looked intriguing.  Most of all, it gave us a chance to sit back and enjoy the sights from above all the hustle and bustle.

The Plaza de Toros is one of the oldest buildings in Seville and you can’t miss the brightly painted, oval shaped building located right on the river front. The Plaza de Toros is the venue for the renowned Spanish bullfight and it’s said that Seville was the origin of modern day bullfighting. Erik and struggled with this activity. While we were in Seville we had the option to attend a true Seville bullfight, but after much discussion about the history of bullfighting and the fact that the bullfighter ultimately kills the bull, we decided to pass on this culturally rich experience. Tell me this isn’t a stange combination!

Another big event that occurs near the end of April is the Seville Fair. Let me tell you, this event is right up my alley. It’s all about the Flamenco, where the men sport the traje corto (short coat, tight pants and black boots) and the women wear elaborate dresses packed full of color, print, and ruffles. As far as the Flamenco dress goes, there’s no such thing as too much. Since 1847 Sevillians have been celebrating this two week fair with daily parades, family tents, and lots and lots of wine and dancing. In the downtown area of Seville there are shopping parcades dedicated to Flamenco dress finery. You’ll find seamstress shops that specialize only in Flamenco dresses right next to bead shops supplying women with the bobbles they need to make complementary jewelry.  Right next to all that is usually a ribbon and lace store along with amazing fabric stores. Our arrival in Seville was 4 days prior to the start of the fair and the Flamenco shops were buzzing with women readying themselves for the big event. I may not have come home with a ruffly dress but I certainly picked up a few Spanish ribbons and notions (I’ll share those later)

  Just a little bit of shopping was done. 

After visiting the Cordoba Cathedral, we basically just wandered around the streets looking at the sites.

One stop we made was to  the Palacio de Viana to check out the 13 different patios they had to offer.  Although the flowers and plant life would probably be best viewed a few months from now, we couldn’t help but be amazed by the beauty and uniqueness of each of the 13 patios.  Water features, hedges, vines, sculptures…it was a sight to behold!

The best part was, we were pretty much the only people looking at the patios, so we had free reign to take as many pictures and do whatever the heck we felt like without having to worry about people moving into the shot.  It was definitely worth the 3 euros to pretend like we lived in a palace for a few hours.

   Apparently the following courtyard is occasionally used for weddings, concerts, etc.  What a great place for a wedding reception!

  Lots of markets and small shops were scattered throughout the central part of the old town.  Most of them sold the same stuff, but there were a few gems.

Our final discovery of Cordoba was this huge plaza (the only completely enclosed plaza in Cordoba).  By the time we stumbled upon it evening had set in and most people had gone home.  Gotta love the communist flag in the background…saw a few of those while we were in Spain.

 What a beautiful backdrop…a church facade and a huge bouganvilla on the wall.

Good old  Dia supermarket.  After a week in Spain we definitely needed to stock up on some essentials (water, shampoo, band-aids, deodorant, toothpaste, etc.)  

Cordoba is full of narrow streets meant for motorcycles (or seriously narrow cars).  Hard to believe people actually drive on these roads, but they do…and the doors and fenders on their cars have the scratches to prove it.

Our main stop on the second day was the Cathedral-Mosque of Cordoba.  Originally built as a Mosque by the Moors, the building was converted into a Cathedral when the Catholics took back control of the area.  It’s really a neat mix of Mosque and Cathedral all wrapped up into one package…kinda like a fusion church.
The red and white archways mixed with the “forest” of pillars makes for quite the site.  There are a total of 856 columns throughout the interior and they are made of various materials including jasper, onyx, marble, and granite…simple breathtaking.

Another spectacular site is the chapel in the center of the Cathedral.  The ceilings had to have been around 80 to 100 ft high with extraordinary detail work all the way up the walls.  Somebody’s shoulders must have been tired by the time this puppy was finished!

You wouldn’t believe how long we had to stand here to get this shot!  Lots of people stepping into the picture at the last second…good thing I have a digital camera with a delete button.

You can see the mix of Catholic architecture and Muslim tile-work, including Arabic writing.  Don’t ask me what they say…they just look cool!

Another neat feature of the Cathedral was the courtyard within the walls.  Filled with Orange trees and a nifty watering system, it was the perfect place to enjoy an ice cream cone.  Also, there were beautiful doors lining the entire central courtyard.

According to Cordoba historians and a renowned medieval poem, Cantar de Gesta, in 974 AD the Lord of Salas was imprisoned within the walls of this house and alley and the heads of his sons who died in the fields of Soria where displayed between the arches.

Cordoba, where to begin? For starters, both Erik and I agree, it was one of our favorite spots in Spain. We stayed in the old city, where the surrounding wall used at one time for protection still exists in remarkable shape. In the 10th century it was believed to be the most populated city in the world.  The streets are lined with fruiting orange trees and the sweet aroma of orange blossoms reaches every crevasse of the city.

 The Cordoba Roman Bridge was built in the 1st century BC and still provides a means for crossing the river.

 Tapas, tapas and more tapas…and to top it off, crisp, cool sangria.

 Walking into the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos will be something I will never forget. The entrance was…nothing extraordinary and didn’t offer much of a glimpse at what was inside the gates. The tour guide books provided a somewhat meager history of the site and didn’t do much to build it up, but the entry fee was low…we decided to take our chances. So yeah, we kinda thought this would be a quick pop in. But as we walked in through the gates and around the corner, views of the most magnificent garden took our breath away. It wasn’t overly busy and people just seemed to soften in the beauty. It had a tranquil effect on everyone. We roamed around, enjoying the site of full grown citrus trees, fountains, and labyrinths of flowers and myrtle hedges.

We could even climb up onto the top of the walls and look out over the nearby city…very cool.

Can you say…peaceful!

 Because the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos was in the center of the old city we had time to check out a few other things like one of the oldest remaining Synagogues in Spain, built in 1315. Following the expulsion of the Jews from Spain in 1492 the Synagogue was used for many other purposes. It was in 1884 that a Catholic Priest discovered the hidden beauty of the historical synagogue when a piece of plaster broke away from the wall exposing what was hidden beneath. In 1885 it was declared a national monument and many restorations have occured to reveal the secrets covered by the plaster. The synagogue is small, and tucked into the center of the old city and without a map you could walk past it without even really knowing it was a historical gem. 
This was a neat little market area, complete with a flamenco guitarist serenading the tourists.

A day trip to Toledo, Spain was next on the docket.  Only a 30 minute train ride from Madrid, it makes for a great escape from the city.

A quaint Spanish city nestled into the hillside, Toledo is perfect for a single day trip to check out the Holy Church Cathedral and the Alcazar.  Once the capital of Spain, it dates back to Roman occupation in 192 BC.  As the capital of Spain, Toledo became a city that specialized in weapon manufacturing, specifically sword-making, in the 17th century. Erik and I moseyed around town, shared a picnic lunch on the steps in front of a theater, and enjoyed the semi-sleepy streets. 
 
    The Holy Church Cathedral is one of the oldest Cathedrals in Spain.  It dates back to 1227 and was built over the foundations of a Mosque. The chapter chamber houses mural paintings of each of Toledo’s Cardinals, dating back 500 years.  Huge fresco paintings are all over the Cathedral, both on ceilings and walls.  The ones below are in an outdoor courtyard next to a bunch of orange trees…beautiful!

As usual, there is a creepy yet beautiful sepulchre in one of the Cathedral chapels.

Toledo was definitely a must-see town if you’ve got an extra day in Madrid.